2 September 2023

After a good nights sleep, we had a late and leisurely breakfast in Lillehammer before heading off on our long scenic drive.

I have to say that these Norwegians seem to have a pretty good work/ life balance. We were aware that the shops and many other businesses are shut on Sundays, but had no idea that they didn’t open up until 10 am on Saturdays as well.

We arrived in the main part of town just after 9 am , expecting to find the place buzzing. It was empty. Even the main coffee shop called “Espresso House” didn’t open until 10. We thought it was a missed business opportunity, but as we were the only ones lined up outside the door at 9:30, perhaps not.

We finally found a little bakery that was open and it proudly announced they also sold coffee. I waltzed in with my order of two flat whites, extra shot, and one laté The lovely shop keeper smiled, pointed to the coffee pot and told me to help myself! Now, I know I’m sounding like the coffee snob I actually am , but I’d already committed and besides there were limited options available. I poured three “coffees”, collected three little pots of milk and made a last minute selection of three little pastry things, to help wash it all down. Todays coffee score , 4/10 ! Yummy pikeletey thing, waffle and something with cheese and sweet cream on a pancake….. 9/10!! The lovely shopowner came out to check on us an let us know that we could fill our coffee cups up as many times as we liked, for free!!! Yay!

We returned to the car, checked the windscreen for more parking fines (none!) and drove off through the beautiful Gudbransdalan Valley towards the town of Lom.

I was encouraged to sit in the back passenger seat today ! There’s a surprise!!

The Valley drive was gorgeous, lots of fast flowing rivers, lots of rolling hills speckled again with the little red farm houses, thickly forested mountains and, sadly, some washed out roads (which were already well under repair, and with well signposted alternative routes). About three weeks ago, Norway experienced a massive storm and serious flooding in this area. There were still some areas under water, down by the fjords, and evidence of dead trees and debris piled up, fences washed away and road damage. But overall, it all looked pretty well repaired, or at least in the process of being so.

Waterfall Spotto was the game of the day, and for a while it was quite competitive. Rules were developed as to what actually constituted a waterfall, and wet rock faces that merely glistened in the sun, indicated the presence of water, were quickly ruled out, after Grahame tried to claim one. The game continued for about an hour until we lost track of the score at about 50 all! By then the novelty had well and truly rubbed off.

Lom Stave Church, “one of the largest and most beautiful in Norway” , dates back to 1158. In the Middle Ages it was the main church in the district and was an important stopping off point for pilgrims. And us!

Of course, we paid the entry fee and headed inside.

It was lunchtime! We found the nearest rock, set up our picnic and enjoyed the view.

The village of Lom was a bustling tourist destination and even though the season is drawing to an end was still a steady stream of people, wandering the streets, and enjoying the shops. With lots of visitors the town planners saw the need to install high tech Public Toilets it seems! It’s the first time I’ve had to enter a WC through a turnstile, after having to tap our Mastercard and wait for it to be verified.

Next stop was the Dalsnibba Skywalk, “Europes highest fjord viewpoint by road. “.

The drive up was stunning. Sheer mountains, glacial sheets , emerald green water filled fjords , and little huts perched high on hills screamed for our attention.

We paid an entry fee for the last five kilometres up to Dalsnibba. Not sure how much we paid because I still haven’t worked out the conversion rate, but wow, it was worth it!! The hair pin bends were hair raising and the busses, filled with tourists, hurtling down towards us were terrifying, But Grahame coped beautifully, manoeuvring our little Peugeot safely out of harms way.

We stayed up high for an hour or so, marvelling at the view and mesmerised by the skill of the coach drivers who successfully negotiated those tight bends , and scary passing lanes to deposit their passengers safely at the top. And later, back down again.

We were more then happy to be travelling in Ruby Red!

We arrived in Geiranger just in time to wave goodbye to the Cruise ship that we had spied from way up on Dalsnibba

Now , most of those who know us, know that we are not overly organised in the “book ahead” department. At the moment, we are operating under the “ fly by the seat of our pants“ method. This is proving a real eye opener for Emily, who as a solo traveller was extremely well organised. Mind you she is coming around to our way of thinking. Last night we poured over various booking sites searching for somewhere to park our weary heads for the night. Sadly, our options were limited and there wasn’t much in our acceptable price range.

We booked in at “Solvang World Heritage Camping Park” in Eidsdal, about 15 kms away from Geiranger, via many more hairpin bends. It was relatively cheap and given that our experience at tourist park experience in Lillehammer had been positive, we crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.

The title “World Heritage Camping” turned out to be a little misleading. Sure, the scenery was World Class but I’m not sure the amenities would be considered as much.

We checked in , paid extra for sheets, pillows and towels and held our collective breaths as we opened the door. Basic, but warm. Spartan but dry. Emily, being the youngest was allocated the top bunk bed, Grahame had the bottom bunk and I had the lounge!!

Although the facilities were basic and the amenities block a whole six cabins away, the view really was spectacular.

Emily had had the foresight to suggest we stock up on provisions in Geiranger, just in case!! This proved to be an inspired decision We dined on Hot Dogs and salad washed down with enough duty free gin and bourbon to ensure a decent nights sleep.

But not too much. It was a long walk to the loo.!!