Ambling Around Antwerp

3 October 2023

We started a bit later today. It was cooler (thank goodness, but I wonder if I’ll regret saying that in a few weeks time) and we had no need to rush anywhere or do anything today.

The view from the little apartment above the Ice Cream Parlour hadn’t changed much. There were less people, the sun wasn’t out and things were a little damper and windier than yesterday. Otherwise same-same. But still spectacular!!

We had a little insider knowledge this morning and with the help of Google maps found our way to Normo for a Flat White!! Ahhhhh!

8/10. Could have been a bit hotter! But great milk pour!!

Fully refuelled, we were ready to tackle the day.

It looked like a good day to be indoors, with squally r*#n showers and blustery wind. We planned accordingly!

The Cathedral was our first port of call. I’m not sure what it is about Grand Churches and Cathedrals , but I am drawn to them like a moth to light. I think it’s the stain glass that does it for me. And there is usually some nice stuff to look at as well. And of course the magnificent architecture! My nagging concern though, is the amount of riches inside, while outside beggars are scrounging for food and a little money.

My fave? Bottom right
“The Man Who Bears the Cross”

Rubens was big in Antwerp, living a fair part of his life here. Four of his works are proudly hanging within the Cathedral and crowds flock to admire his work. We did too!

“The Raising of the Cross“
“The Descent From the Cross “
“The Resurrection of Christ”
“The Assumption of the Virgin Mary”
Stunning!

There was so many beautiful scenes within, but I think you get the idea.

Grahame was interested in visiting “Museum Plantin-Moretus” with obvious ties to his previous work life as a “copy boy” at the Newcastle Herald. Christophe Plantin established a Publishing firm in Antwerp back in 1550s. The museum and workshop was established in his former home and was an amazing step back in time. The wooden floors creaked delightfully as we passed through the various rooms displaying printing presses, old books (including Bibles, medical, botanical, and mathematical texts) , maps, type of all different fonts in all different languages and symbols, and aspects of both family and daily working life. Plantin and his descendants were shrewd businessman and had a bit of a monopoly on all things printable back in the day. Grahame was amazed how little things had changed in the printing process from then until the late 1970s. The change since has been rapid and unrecognisable in current times., however.

The Plantin Coutyard
Workshop, presses , type
Looks familiar
One of many book collections housed within

Back in the Grote Markt, the weather was improving and we stopped to admire Brabo’s Fountain.

The fountain, dating from 1887, contains a statue depicting the city’s legendary founder, Silvius Bravo, throwing the severed hand of the giant, Druon Antignoon, into the river Scheldt. Antigoon was a nasty old giant who extracted a toll from passing boatmen. If they didn’t pay up, he severed their hand and threw it in the river. Along came a young Roman Army Captain who challenged and killed the giant. Brabo cut off the giants hand and is captured here in the process of hurling it into the river. Karma, and all that!!!

Further legend states that is how Antwerp got its name. ( Antwerpen is a composition of the Dutch words “(h)ant” (hand) and “werpen” (throw or launch).

We walked towards the MAS ( the modern looking museum we spotted yesterday). We had been told we could access the rooftop and the view from there would be pretty amazing.

Uh oh! Another Church!!! This time Saint Charles Borromeo’s church enticed us in.

And if we hadn’t gone in, we wouldn’t have seen this….

“A Matter of Trust”
Some more nice stuff

The MAS (Museum Aan de Stroom) warehouse is an impressive building situated near the waterfront and dock area of Antwerp. The galleries are stacked on top of each other with internal escalators that spiral up around the building to the 10th floor or viewing platform. Once again the Hand (remember Brabo? ), the symbol of Antwerp, is featured on the outside. Around 3000 of them.

We rode the escalators upward and were very pleased to be saluted by this pair on the 8th floor.

Thanks MAS / Google

The artist “was inspired by the area of the port with its multitude of (cruise) ships. The Saluting Admiral Couple appears to have become lost during a walk around the city and have accidently landed upon the shoulder of the MAS.” ( Wikipedia)

The view from the rooftop was impressive too.

Brings a new meaning to “ the kids were climbing the wall” Or they’re “driving me up the wall”.

I needed a rest ! So we had ice-cream!!! Not from “ our” ice cream shop unfortunately. It’s closed today.

Mango AND pistachio!!

The highlight of our day though was definitely the amazing dinner we had at Vis Van a, seafood restaurant beside the Schelde River. We met Hayley at her place and walked down to the Restaurant together.

We shared such delicacies as razor clam, North Sea crab, squid , octopus, mussels and oysters. Omg!! And then we had dessert!! There may have been a cocktail, and a wine or two as well! Amazing food and great company. (We will have to do a lot “ambling” tomorrow.)

Thanks for the pic Hayley.
Don’t think Banjo wanted his photo taken

We said a fond farewell to Hayley and Banjo back at her apartment and ambled (waddled!) back home to our little house in the Square.

What a day!!!

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