8 September 2023

I can see a pattern starting already. It goes something like sleep, eat, see, sleep some more, eat some more, see some more and sleep again. Which is not such a bad way to live, just saying.

Once again, some of us slept well and some of us not so much, as we adjusted to the hum of the engines and the gentle rocking of the boat.

I’m happy to report that today we had calm seas and a fair breeze, so it was all pretty much smooth sailing.

The weather was amazing! And warm!! All that winter gear in our bags is staying put for now. We grab our jackets when we go out on deck, but out of the wind it’s positively balmy.

Our breakfast up in the restaurant has to be seen to be believed. (I’ve never been on a cruise before, so I guess for the more experienced sailors, it was standard fare , but for me it was way too much choice!)

For the record, the coffee is not good. Emily tells me there’s a cafe up on the 7th floor which does make a decent one, but the 7th floor is where the bar, with the comfy chairs and the huge bank of glass windows are. If I’m on the 7th floor, I’m not drinking coffee!

Hurtigruten (meaning “Express Route”) is a Norwegian public coastal shipping company “transporting passengers, that travel locally, regionally and between the ports of call, and also cargo between ports north of Tromso“. (Google).

The ship calls in quickly at the smaller villages to drop cargo off and is on its way shortly after. It stops longer in the bigger centres, allowing time for us to disembark and explore, or participate in organised excursions. There are 34 ports on the northbound trip and 33 on the return.

Today, MS Polarlys hugged the spectacular coast line, and diverted into Hjørundfjord and then into Norangsfjord, where we moored off the tiny village of Urke.

Some passengers had activities booked and were “tendered “ off first.

After they headed off, the riff raff could go ashore and explore the tiny village. The tender ride took a couple of minutes and gave us the opportunity to see Polarlys from a different perspective.

I couldn’t help feel a little sorry for the locals who were subjected to this regular onslaught of tourists for an hour and a half each day.

Urke apparently has a population problem, a decreasing one. The current population is between 40 and 50 people down from 350 , fifty years ago. Recently, the locals banded together and bought the local store/ petrol station/ chemist/ post office in order to keep it open. Buying an ice cream at the co-op was the least we could do.

While some of the crew problem solved something at the front , and others carried out life boat drills, we passengers, sat in the sun soaking up its rays and and the spectacular scenery.

It was perfect Aperol weather!!!

……And sleeping weather.

The trip back down the fjord was just as scenic and wonderfully enjoyable for those of us still awake.

Our next stop was Ålesund, at the entrance to Geirangerfjord. (The one we travelled down the other day with Ruby).

We disembarked and wandered around the town for an hour or so. Like most towns/cities in Norway, it burnt down in 1904.

It’s famous for being rebuilt in the Art-Nouveau style. The buildings were indeed spectacular. Big statement coming…. I think I preferred it to Bergen!

We walked back to the ship via the shop that sold “probably the best fish and chips in the world”.

We passed up the opportunity to test this claim as we were due back at MS Polarlys and our own dinner which was “probably, the best lamb in the world.” ( Well at least, maybe)

Our 8.15pm meal sitting meant that once we had eaten, it was well and truly past my bedtime. I managed to stay awake for dessert, but not for much longer.

All that sea air!!! Ahoy!!!