30 September 2023

Cologne was a little cooler and a little mistier this morning. We donned an extra layer for our morning search for coffee.

The coffee was good (8/10) and the breakfast, although not quite to the standard of the last few days, was still enjoyable.

We were booked in to a cycling tour of Cologne and we needed a bit of extra sustenance to get us through our three hour tour.

Our walk through the Cathedral precinct was interesting despite the early hour. Tomorrow Cologne is hosting a marathon and today was the kids event. There were lots of workers setting up barriers, winners podiums and jumping castles right on the Cathedral apron. This explains why the accommodation was so tight. People everywhere!!

The chalk artists were busy recreating their works on the Cathedral forecourt. After last nights r#*n, yesterdays art had been washed away.

You may have noticed that we are fans of the cycling tours, and over the years we have cycle- toured London, Paris, Barcelona, Brussels, Oslo and now Cologne. We find it’s a great way to experience the city and get our bearings. We have always had great guides, who have not only led us safely around the little streets and cycleways, but have passionately shared interesting historical, factual, and not so factual ,information about their home town.

Today was no different. Peter, our guide was fabulous. He took us to places we wouldn’t have been able to access on our own and gave us a great insight into the city.

Cologne was very heavily bombed during the war and not much was left standing. As a result there is a weird mixture of architecture now on show. There was still evidence of Roman Roads, medieval gates and fortifications, pre-war housing and post war rejuvenation. The immediate post war stuff was shoved up with not much planning, and slapped together with whatever was available. (Rubble??) As our guide informed us, a lot of the current architecture in Cologne was the “quick and dirty”. It was thrown up quickly to provide accommodation and services after the war with not much thought to making it look pretty. And pretty it ain’t.

As Peter explained… “Cologne has been destroyed twice!! Once during the war and again by the city architects!! .” Cruel but fair. The “quick and dirty” buildings have a limited life span and it is about now that they are starting to be replaced. Lots of construction/ reconstruction in progress.

Peter explained that Agnes, of Roman times, had her head chopped off and that’s why this church also has no “head”. Hmmmm???

Next stop was the Rosegarden at Fort X. The roses were almost all gone for the season but the park and the surrounds were still a pleasant oasis in a bustling city.

We crossed the Rhine River at Neustadt-Nord (Zoobrücke). The view back to the cathedral and Hohenzollern Bridge was impressive.

The Rheinpark provided yet another “breath of fresh air”. Created from the rubble and debris from WWII it is now home to cycle ways, skateparks, fountains, entertainment areas, cafes and hundreds of Canadian geese.

Back in the city centre we stopped at the Old Market which was buzzing with wedding groups. The Rathaus is a busy place on Saturday’s with weddings booked for the Civil ceremony every 15 minutes or so.

Just around the corner, we were back at the Cathedral. By now the kids running event was finishing up, the protesters/demonstrators were ramping up, the chalk artists had completed their drawings, the tour groups on segways, bicycles and on foot were gathering, local Cologne and Stuttgart Football fans were milling prior to the game. It was hectic.

Bike tour complete and thoroughly enjoyed, we had an hour to recuperate before collecting our bags and heading to the Hauptbahnhof to catch our next high speed train.

We headed to the Ludwig Museum right beside the Cathedral. (My Art Friends will be impressed.) And it was…. Pretty good!!

There was some nice stuff, some ok stuff and some pretty ordinary stuff but as I am constantly reminded….“Each to their own”.

We did enjoy our quick visit to the Ludwig. And highly recommend it if you happen to be in the neighbourhood!! But now it was time to move on again.

Why Liège? Good question, to which we really have no answer. Our accidental tourist brain- set kicked in again and this is where we ended up. I know there is one of the Cycling classics held here around April each year ( Liège- Bastogne-Liège) and it’s on the way to Brussels and our destination for Monday. That’s it!!

Our high speed train delivered us to the outskirts of town, my phone pinged to tell me we were in Belgium, and the helpful train information man at Liège-Guillemins station spoke to me in French!!!

We handed over our passports for ID purposes to the lovely receptionist at our hotel. She looked at our passports, looked at us and said: Hmmm Australians!! Why did you come here?? Are you lost?? “ Lol!!!

We assured her that we were actually here by choice and she happily armed us with a map and a plan of attack.

Our first task was to conquer Montagne De Bueren ( Bueren stairs), one of the “most extreme staircases in the world” with 374 steps. (Hang on!!! Remember the Lillehammer Ski Jump?)

Next, we wandered through the Coteaux de la Citadelle ( Hillside of the Citadel) the green lungs of Liège. There were great views back down over the town and it was such a nice peaceful stroll after the hustle and bustle of Cologne.

Back down at town level we followed the path and ended up in the old town centre which is having light rail installed! Traffic/ pedestrian chaos! But we survived the crossings and went exploring there.

The streets got busier as night approached and everyone came out in search of a meal.

Grahame was pretty happy with his dinner choice!

We walked home with very, very full tummies, hoping that a day of cycling and walking will balance out the mega-calorie intake.

Tomorrow we will continue to explore Liège! Goodnight!!